Terra-cotta warriors

9/18/07 Terra-cotta Warriors
Assemble at quarter to nine for the Terra-cotta warriors, Sherry told us. Since I have been up since four and Jamie likewise, that shouldn’t be a problem. The sleeping beauties still snooze peacefully, time to put an end to that. I put Lian in a little sundress, and me too, me too Lela. We have leisurely breakfast. Lian can manage spoon and fork just fine, but the restaurant has chosen huge heavy utensils. We finally snag some tea spoons for her. We’re ready at 8:45 and not last for once. Aboard the bus, Sherry tells us a bit about the site. It was built by the first Emperor of China, Qin, who unified the six countries. He also began construction of the Great Wall. Construction of the tomb took over 40 years and 750,000 people to create the arm and tomb. After his unexpectedly early death, his dynasty was overthrown and the tomb attacked, looted and burned. The upper portions erased, they disappeared from history for almost 2000 years until rediscovered by a farmer digging a well in 1974.
But first a shopping opportunity – we will stop at a factory that makes reproductions. The process is labor intensive with multi-part molds and firings. We do buy a set of small figures with a 20% discount for having cute Chinese girls, $160RMB. Sherry insists that these are superior to the ones will see hawked on the site.
On to the tomb. We all opt for the 6 yuan golf cart ride up to the entrance of the buildings protecting the excavated sites. The scenery of the surrounding mountains is magnificent, terraced green slopes marching along the horizon. There are several buildings housing excavation sites. First we see a movie about the building and rediscovery. It’s a circular screen and we stand in the middle, with the Emperor’s army thundering past. It would be even better if they could get the sound working, but we get the gist. Lela has her theater freak out (from a very traumatic experience involving hundreds of dancing Santas at Radio City Music Hall) and I have to carry her in screaming, but she enjoys it once she actually looks.
Then on to the main site. An enormous field house type structure covers the excavated warriors, who stand in ranks about 5 abreast, stretching back far into the distance. There is an elevated promenade around the perimeter, and we walk to the other end. The once brightly painted warriors each have an individual face, though they are made as types; archer, foot soldier, charioteer, commander, general – but only one Emperor. Now they march begrimed with dust from the amber sandstone and dry rusty earth that surrounds them. Towards the back a charioteer stands next to his four horses, the wooden chariot succumbed to rot long ago.
Then on to a building that covers an ongoing excavation. We look deep into a pit, where four horses have been uncovered and the fragmented remains of others lie in a jumbled heap. Around the perimeter where we walk are cases with one of each of the types to be viewed up close and personal The next building is more of a museum, with recovered artifacts. Did I mention we’d lost the group three times by now, pausing to look, then looking up to find no one familiar in sight. Finally lunch, at a large restaurant located on the grounds. We are seated at one large table with a lazy susan on which various dishes are placed. More selections line tables along the walls. At one station a chef is making noodles, stretching out the dough and pounding it down on the table. I try a little of everything, sacrificing my figure in the name of adventure. Some of it is a little strange. Some of it is a lot strange, but interesting, like the preserved melon in orange juice, at least I think that’s what it was.
On the way out we are assaulted by hawkers with boxed sets of warriors, one dollar. I stop, though Sherry has expressly forbidden us to talk to “those people.” She was right, turns out its a scam of getting one of the figures not the set. I do buy a set for more than I should, but still less than $5. The Littles are much better bargainers, getting a whole set for $1 US. Oh well, it’s not like it was gold futures. I also buy a wall hanging of bright appliquйs probably for more than I should, about $12 US. Back on the bus with punch drunk children and home to the hotel.
Lian has a late nap and I take Lela to the pool. We play Princess Ariel, (Little Mermaid,, Disney version for those without small girls) and I get to be the evil sea witch, also pinch hitting as Ariel’s sister or King Triton as required. (You can’t play Cinderella in a pool!) Back downstairs, we find Lian grieving in Jamie’s arms. Our arrival snaps her out of it. We dither about dinner, go out walking to look. Up the nearest main drag we pass a children’s clothing shop. We stop to ask for shoes. She doesn’t have Lian’s size but directs us to a shoe store around the corner. None of this happens in English. The shoe store is huge, opening onto the pavement. By pointing at Lian’s feet, we get sent upstairs to the children’s dept. As I have reported, we emerged successfully with pink mesh tops for Lian and extra fancy princess sandals for Lela. On the walk back we get ice cream bars. Lian steadily works on hers though it is mostly running down her fist. It’s already late so we just mop the girls off, read a quick story and it’s bed time for all.